21. Body cavity sealing

This seems to be the finishing job for working on the frame itself - the cavity sealing.

When I drill a big hohle in one of the "seald" tubes for adding a threaded bushing for the LHD conversion, I saw, that inside the tubes it is rusty.
As I have drilled a 6mm hohle in all tubes, which do not have "one" ( you remember ?, if not see paragraph 12 ), I got the option to fill in a cavity sealing in all tubes.

See the arrows for all the hohles

I asked my friends, which cavity sealing they will use. I got a rest from the Teroson Terotex HV350, which gave a good feedback over years...

It is not one of the ceap ones, but who cares about the price if you need only one or two liters...

The best tool to apply the sealing is a "I did not find an english name for this tool - in German it is a Druckbecherpistole"

There are three different nozzles you can use.
1. a long solid hose, which sprays 360° around
     --> Good for tubes with open end
2. a tube with a metal pipe
     --> If the hohle size is 8mm, you can insert it and it works very good
     --> I added a additional smaller hose to the pipe - see text below
3. a blue hose with a small 2mm nozzle ( got it from a glue dispensor )
     --> For the small hohles I have drilled and for using some hohles from screws

It started with the blue hose and the tiny nozzle. I have tested it with water, there it worked well, but the cavity sealing is less viscous and the "output" is so minimal, that it will take much too long to apply enough inside the tubes. So I added a smaller hose to the metal pipe and used this one for the small hohles. The open end tubes were filled with the solid hose in a second run.
I used about 1 liter for the hole frame.

By the way - the other half of a liter will protect me for the rest of my life against rust. You feel and smell Mr. Teroson even after a long hot shower...
If it works inside the frame in the same way as on my own body, it is perfect !

The result: